Over time, your washing machine door seal may become mouldy, rip or start to crumble away. Don’t worry though, it’s just general wear and tear and you can get it sorted yourself pretty quickly. Every washing machine is different, so this guide is just a general rule of thumb for you to follow.
Let’s remove the front panel. As we’ve already mentioned, every model is different, and there are a number of places that you may have to remove screws from:
Most washing machines have a small band that rests against the outer edge of the seal. Grab that flat-head screwdriver we mentioned at the start and pull the small band away from the seal. Now, pry the seal off the edge of the drum by folding it inwards, while checking and removing any clips that might be holding it in place.
Stay with us, you’re almost at the rubber seal. There’s a retaining spring or band that presses the rubber seal in place. Locate the screw that holds the spring in place and loosen it so you can unhook and remove the seal. Again, the screw could be in any number of places depending on your model:
Finally, you can now take the rubber seal off. Pull it away from the lips of the drum. If it won’t shift, the door lock will need to be unscrewed. You’ll need to remember the lock position when you’re putting in the new seal as it’ll need to go in the same way.
Get the new door seal lined up over the drum. Make sure the drain holes match up and then work the inner lip over the drum, fold it over and it will be securely fastened in.
Put the spring or band back on by hooking it. Tighten it up with a screwdriver. If you removed the counterweight or front panel earlier, replace them. Then, pull the door seal out again and fit it over the outer groove.
Phew, finally! Make sure you’ve reattached everything. Whether it’s the front panel, the door, the lid – anything you had to remove earlier. Plug the washing machine back in and run an empty cycle just to double check everything is hooked up correctly.