There's a lot going on behind the glass of this Smeg built-in oven. Thermo-ventilated cooking circulates heat across all five shelf positions. Electronic control holds the set temperature to within 2-3°C, which is exactly what a soufflé wants, while the pizza function gives you a dedicated setting for pizza. The grill runs at 1800 Watts across the full width of the cavity, with the door closed. The 70-litre interior takes the wire shelf and a 4-centimetre-deep baking tray.

Cleaning is where this one really earns its keep. Pyrolytic mode heats the cavity to 500°C and turns baked-on grease into a fine ash. You can wipe it out with a cloth, and no detergents are needed. The door locks itself while the cycle runs. The Ever Clean enamel lining is acid-resistant and low in porosity, so fat is less likely to grip the walls. All four door panes lift out for a proper clean. Rapid preheat fires the heating elements together to bring the cavity up to temperature up to 50% faster than a standard preheat on this oven, depending on the temperature you set. Handy when dinner is already running late.